Orvieto Travel Guide: Cathedral, Caves and Wine

Orvieto is a compact hill town on a sheer cliff of volcanic tuff in south-western Umbria, and the main reasons to go are its cathedral, with a glittering Gothic façade and Luca Signorelli’s frescoes of the Last Judgement inside, and the network of caves carved beneath the streets. It lies on the Florence to Rome railway, with a funicular up from the station, so you can visit easily without a car. Plan a full day, or a night if you want the town quiet.

Orvieto at a glance

Where	South-western Umbria, province of Terni, near the Lazio border
Getting there	Train on the Florence to Rome line; motorway exit nearby
Time needed	One day; one night for a relaxed visit
Highlights	Cathedral, San Brizio Chapel, St Patrick’s Well, underground tours
Local speciality	Orvieto white wine

The cathedral

Orvieto’s Duomo was begun at the end of the 13th century, and its façade, designed in large part by the Sienese architect Lorenzo Maitani, is covered in mosaics, carved reliefs and bronze. The lower pillars show finely carved scenes from the Bible, from the Creation to the Last Judgement. The sides of the church are striped in dark and light stone.

Inside, two chapels stand out:

• Cappella di San Brizio: Fra Angelico began the decoration in the mid-15th century; Luca Signorelli completed it around 1500 with a powerful cycle on the end of the world, the Antichrist, the resurrection of the dead and the Last Judgement. It is one of the key works of Italian Renaissance painting.
• Cappella del Corporale: this chapel holds the relic linked to the Miracle of Bolsena, a story closely tied to the feast of Corpus Domini.

The cathedral and its museums are run by the cathedral works foundation; tickets and hours are published on the Opera del Duomo website. If Renaissance painting interests you, our guide to Renaissance art and music in Umbria places Signorelli in context.

Underground Orvieto

The tuff beneath Orvieto is soft enough to dig, and over centuries its inhabitants cut cellars, cisterns, wells, quarries and dovecotes into the rock. Guided underground tours start near the cathedral and visit a selection of these spaces, including a medieval olive press. Tours run in several languages; book ahead in high season.

St Patrick’s Well

The Pozzo di San Patrizio was commissioned in the 16th century by Pope Clement VII to secure the town’s water supply in case of siege. Designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, it has two spiral ramps arranged so that people going down never met those coming up. Walking down and back is a modest workout, so take your time. The well is near the upper funicular station, so it is easy to visit on arrival or departure.

Other sights

• Torre del Moro: a medieval tower in the centre; the climb gives views across the rooftops and the surrounding countryside.
• Piazza del Popolo and Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo: a market square framed by a stern medieval palace.
• Etruscan Orvieto: the Museo Claudio Faina opposite the cathedral holds Etruscan finds, and the Necropolis of Crocifisso del Tufo, below the cliff, is an Etruscan cemetery with streets of chamber tombs.
• Pozzo della Cava: a privately run well and cave complex in the western part of town.
• The cliff walk: a path along the base of the rock gives a different view of the town and the valley.

Getting there and around

By train: Orvieto station (in the lower town, Orvieto Scalo) is on the main line between Florence and Rome. From Rome, regional trains make Orvieto a common day trip. From Perugia you usually change at Terontola, so the journey takes longer. Check Trenitalia for connections.

Funicular: opposite the station, a funicular climbs the cliff to Piazza Cahen at the eastern edge of the old town. From there, walk or take a local bus to the cathedral.

By car: Orvieto has a motorway exit on the A1. Park in the lower town or in car parks at the foot of the rock with lifts and escalators up; the centre has restricted traffic zones.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant. Around Corpus Domini, usually in late May or June, Orvieto holds a procession in historical costume. In winter, the town hosts Umbria Jazz Winter around New Year. Summer days can be hot on the exposed rock; go early.

Food and wine

Orvieto gives its name to one of Italy’s best-known white wines, produced on the volcanic soils around the town. Try it with local dishes such as pasta with wild boar or hearty soups. Our guide to Umbrian wine explains the styles.

Fitting Orvieto into your trip

Orvieto is a natural first or last stop on a route between Rome and Perugia. Combine it with Lake Trasimeno or Todi by car, or see our seven-day Umbria itinerary. Other towns are listed in the hill towns section.